Thoughts about New Jersey and Tour Guides

Since the weather in Pokhara prevented our excursion to the quaint mountain town, we settled for a half-day trip to Bhaktapur, a nearby city with the standard collection of ancient temples and historical curiosities.  Bhaktapur is the third of what were once three kingdoms in the valley (the others being Kathmandu and Patan) and we'd heard that it warrants its own trip.  

We left on a beautiful morning, with clear blue skies.  The cab ride took us along the Kathmandu-Bhaktapur highway (see previous journal entry), which never really leaves the urban setting, though it connects the two cities.  I sort of felt like we were driving through the Nepalese version of New Jersey, a long continuous road of sprawling unattractive development that connects population centers.  (My apologies to any friends or in-laws who may happen to be from New Jersey--I know it doesn't entirely conform to my stereotype, but I'm trying to illustrate an impression here.)  

Bhaktapur has some things going for it.  Notably that no cars are allowed in the main part of town.  It makes for a much more pleasant tourist experience, a quieter pedestrian village that feels more authentic than Kathmandu.  Still, that didn't prevent the tour guides from accosting us.  We had traveled no more than 50 feet from the main gate and we'd already turned down 5 tour guides.  It's like they're all trained in the exact same way; every conversation is the same.

Guide: Where are you from?

Chris and Melissa: (silence, reading their guide book)

Guide: Are you from the US?

Chris: Yes, we're from New York.

Guide: Ah, New York!  How long are you in Nepal?

Chris: We're here for two weeks.  And we're not interested in a tour guide.

Guide: Have you seen much in Nepal?  Nepal has much history!  It is good to know all about it.

Melissa: We're reading the history in our book.  We're not interested in a tour guide.

Guide: The book does not tell you all the history.  I tell you everything.  I give you good price.

Chris: (walking away) We don't need a tour guide, thank you.

Guide: (walking with us) Not expensive!  1 hour, good price!

Melissa: (walking away) We don't need a tour guide, thank you.

Guide: Very cheap!  10 bucks!

Melissa and Chris: (silence, walking faster)

Guide: I stay here.  You change your mind, remember to come back.  I'll be here one hour waiting for you!

Such is the standard interaction.  But I admit I'm losing my patience.  Two weeks of this is enough to try anyone's level of politeness.  The conversations have sort of devolved to the following example, which I recall as closely as possible from Bhaktapur today:

Guide: Where are you from?

Chris and Melissa: (silence, reading the guide book)

Guide: Are you from the US?

Chris: We don't want a tour guide.

Guide: I tell you everything!

Chris: We don't want a tour guide.  That's it.  We don't want one.  We're all set.  Thank you.

Guide: I give you good price.

Chris: (walking away, waving arm dismissively) No!  We don't want a tour guide!  

Guide: (spots fresh meat exiting a taxi)

Chris: (to Melissa) Ooh, watch this.  Let's see how these poor saps handle this guy.

(from a distance, Chris and Melissa observe the poor saps speaking to the tour guide)

Chris: Uh-oh, first mistake, they stopped walking.  Oh, these guys are finished, he's making eye contact.  Oh, now he's nodding!  Big mistake!  Ok, there, he's walking again.  Good for him.  He's still nodding, though.  Ok, I see a dismissive arm wave, he's getting the hang of it.  

(By this time, Chris and Melissa have been approached by and dimissed yet another tour guide.  Just as the poor saps are ridding themselves of the first, the second tour guide is making his way towards them.  Repeat.)

Clearly I have some resentment towards the damn ubiquitous tour guides.  But I do feel for them.  What a way to earn a living, having to approach strangers and attempt to sell yourself and get turned down hour after hour.  I feel bad for having to be rude to them, but their persistence practically requires it!  If one is not very very direct with them, it encourages them.  I've got to think that educated people with decent English skills can find a more productive way to earn a living.

This originated as an entry about Bhaktapur, and I didn't even get to the bulk of the story.  Ah, well.  The photo above shows me right upon entering Bhaktapur.  See those people in the distance?  They're all tour guides.  I'll let Melissa write the official entry about Bhaktapur and tell you about our thorough soaking.